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Tick Tick!Minutes in Kochi's private bus!

Here is another slice of Kerala life…in fact ….slices of a few minutes in Kochi’s private buses. I am a regular traveller in Kochi city buses and there are a lot many times when incidents in the bus have amused me.

A beautiful morning: After my classes I walk for 15 minutes in the hot sun and wait for a bus to Kochi. Few buses stop by the place but all do their jobs of splashing dirty water and raising dust onto pedestrians and onlookers very well.

It’s morning 8.45 and buses to Kochi are packed. And as these buses whiz by, I find the scene of girls hanging out along with the cleaner boy and conductor of the bus (hey, that reminds me of a romantic movie), on the footboard very funny. I have experienced it too, a couple of times, and to be honest, I find it much more convenient than being inside the crammed bus with hardly enough space to keep both my feet down. At least on the footboard, you have the breeze on your face (though it is hot). And at times when I have had to hang out like this, I picture myself as a Jane (the jungle girl) hanging out on a vine and it adds adventure to my otherwise tiring bus journey. The only inconvenience of being on the footboard is having to get down at every stop before yours, to let out other people and then getting back in again to hang out once more.

Now if that’s the excitement on the footboard, you have enough fun guaranteed inside the crammed bus too. At times, I have had to stand on one leg which reminded me of the dance classes I used to have in school. Argh! And I will be brought back to my senses when someone falls on me from behind.

Tip: If you happen to be thin like me, then go grab a place behind some hefty person in the bus, cos in all probability the person behind will fall on you as and when the bus applies brakes (which will be say around 10 times in 5 minutes) and so in this case you can bear your weight as well as the weight of the person behind you on this unfortunate hefty person in front of you.

So now, here am I still waiting for the bus. Drivers look at me but they are very busy trying to overtake the bus right in front of them that they don’t have time to stop by. With every bus passing by I stretch out my hand with great hope that it will stop and each time the buses pass by without stopping I look around to see how many people spotted me all red faced in embarrassment. And alas, a group of auto drivers at the auto stand look and grin at me. Ok, forget it. Yes; another bus in sight “This time I won’t stretch my hand”. As it nears me and I look at the cleaner boy with a clear indication that I would like the bus to stop. He looks at me and shakes his head, meaning “No, there is no stop here”. Ok, forget it again! Ah! A car is crossing in front of the bus. The bus halts. The cleaner boy immediately looks at me signaling to jump onto the bus. Finally! I rush forward to jump onto it but there again, the car has crossed by and the bus swept by me just as I was about to get it. Embarrassed again! The cleaner boy looks back and gives me that kind of sympathetic amused grin. Damn it!

After a 5 minutes wait, I am finally onto a bus. People push me right to the centre of the bus thus thrashing my hopes to have “Adventure on the Footboard”. The conductor, happily standing in the middle of more than a dozen girls looks at the lady behind me and says “Chechi purakottu po purakottu”(Chechi, go back, back). I looked at her, saw her position (poor thing! She was almost falling into the crowd of men behind her) and wondered where to. She too wondered the same thing I guess and shouted back at the conductor giving him a piece of her mind. Done! He was quiet for the rest of the journey!

My eye catches the scene of another two ladies in front of me, trying to push one another. One lady nudges and the other one nudges twice. This lady stamps her foot and the other one does it twice. The latter who looked a regular traveler in the bus (I guessed that from the camaraderie she shared with the cleaner boy and conductor) shouted at the cleaner boy “Look at her, what’s she doing?” to which the other women retorts “Why are you telling him? What do you think he is going to do to me?” They begin cursing one another with none preparing to give up. Other travellers looked entertained and even the driver reduced the sound of the radio he was playing. Finally the cleaner boy intervenes “Look here, there are other people in this bus, don’t make me lose my patience, I will have you both chucked out!” lol. But I am sure the other people who were having fun at these two ladies expense wouldn’t have bothered much.

The bus passes by a large area filled with a huge pile of plastic and other waste dumped by the side of the road and girls cover their noses with their duppata or sari ends while men standing near me frantically search for their hanky. The cleaner boy triumphantly announces “Kochi, Kochi, Kochi….All of you who want to see the real Kochi look here!” :)

Another 5 minutes and at last, my stop! I pull myself out, then my duppatta and then my bag. Whew! I am drained of all the energy I had saved for the day. Looks like the day has got over but alas, it has just begun!

Kerala delicacies now on American Channel!!!

Kerala and Keralites can now be proud that their own culinary specialties – appam, karimeen and puttu (to name a few), will now be showcased on a well-liked American travel and food show by name “No Reservations”. Hosted by US master chef Anthony Bourdain who has already shot the episode in Kerala, the sixth season of Travel channel’s culinary programme will telecast the delicacies of Kerala cuisine in July.

“By showcasing authentic Kerala food in the homes of ordinary people, Anthony Bourdain is also reaffirming that delicious food and hospitality is not just special to upscale restaurants and hotels but is something that is customary throughout the state,” said Kerala Tourism secretary V. Venu. “It was wonderful to have such a high profile television host championing street and home cooked food,” he added.

To shoot the Kerala episode, the master chef landed in Kochi and travelled all the way to Alleppey to relish the world-renowned backwater cuisine. Whilst his stay in a houseboat Bourdain tried kappa (tapioca) and mussels, home cooked puttu (steamed rice powder preparation), Kerala sadya (feast), spicy pearl spot fish (karimeen), meen curry (fished cooked in coconut) and other vegetarian dishes made with coconut.

To quote from this Times Of India report, Bourdain the author of “A Cook’s Tour-In Search of the Perfect Meal” said, “When it comes to spices and variety, Kerala is right up there in my alley”. Bourdain also stated to them that he had a special fascination for street food “I am also very impressed with the high standard of food in Kerala, especially the street food,” said the chef who hit the streets in Kochi and tasted the varieties. He also enjoyed a meal with Malayalam superstar Mammooty whilst on his Kerala tour.

A thought which came to my mind was that while most Keralites today prefer fast food, sandwiches and burgers as compared to Kerala delicacies, here is a westerner who is all praises for our traditional food. But for those of us who know and savour appam and Karimeen, we can be sure of one thing- our dishes will be exotic and who knows if people actually start cooking it, Karimeen and appam will be common names in some enterprising kitchens of America.

Looks like there is some hope left for the 1411 Tigers remaining!

The inauguration of the Parambikulam Tiger Reserve at Anappadi in Palakkad district on 20th February is some glad news for those who have been striving to make a difference and voice their opinion in the “Save Our Tigers” campaign launched by Aircel.

Well now, this shows that Kerala does really care and is solid proof as to how the people of Kerala do feel about this sensitive issue. “Action speaks louder than words “and yes, this venture does call for a lot of appreciation.

It was only recently that the dwindling Tiger population of the country caught the common man’s attention and it was not until Aircel launched their campaign that people began to voice their opinion. But as it is “Better late than Never”, it looks like people are beginning to feel the sting of it and doing all what they can to help save these beasts from mining, poaching and other operations by real estate mafia.

In his inaugural address, Union minister of state for environment and forests Jairam Ramesh said

“The extinction of Tigers is because there is a real-estate mafia, mining mafia and there is a crime syndication which wants to finish-off all Tigers and lay claim to the forest land and that is the real danger. The danger is not just to Tigers but it is to the forest land itself,”

Formerly known as Parambikulam Wildlife Sanctuary, today, this reserve contains 20 out of the 1411 tigers remaining. The Tiger Reserve is the 38th in India and the 2nd in Kerala.

It is a harsh reality that out of the 40, 000 tigers estimated to be in India at the beginning of the 20th century, only around 1400 remain. An even more sad fact projected is that one tiger per day is dying!

The questions -”How did this happen?Where have they gone?” brings in multiple answers-all unsatisfactory! But what we, as citizens of India can do, is to do our best in trying to protect the ones that are remaining!

The land of alcoholics is also a land of the most devout – An interesting contrast!!!

Reading through the blog “Unity in Diversity at its best“, I was reminded of the church festival, I recently attended. Unlike most of the other states, Kerala is one which celebrates church festivals with great fervour and it is not only the Christians who look forward with much earnest to the church festival in their locality but it is also equally anticipated and enjoyed by Hindus and Muslims in the area.

Most of the localities have a church, each dedicated to a Saint and the feast day of the patron Saint is celebrated with much pomp and splendour. What begins with the hoisting of the flag continues with week-long prayers, novenas and religious services in honour of the Saint and each day’s expense (for the crackers, singers etc) is borne by different families (whether they are affluent or not) in the locality who see it as a matter of prestige and try to outshine one another. The festivities finally culminate with a huge religious procession with display of fireworks and lowering of the flag.

The St. Mary’s church festival I had been to, was the most famous one in Kanjirapally and is always a much awaited one as it is a famous church, and this festival reflects the fact. The huge procession which covered almost the entire town lasted for more than 2 hours and saw a flood of people (an estimated 50, 000) joining in. There were another thousand that stood by the roads to watch the entire procession.

What impressed me was the discipline with which the festivities were conducted. The long stretch of people formed two lines (those bearing the golden and silver crosses first, followed by people carrying huge red, pink and blue umbrellas. The van carrying St.Mary’s statue came right at the end of the procession, luxuriously decorated with flowers and illuminated with lights. Ten music bands accompanied the people at different stretches in the procession and each tried to outperform the other (they knew that the organizers will keep a track of their performance and that it would play a major role in their bookings for the next year)!

There were fireworks (a real feast to the eyes) at various points through which the procession passed, sponsored by famous jewellery and merchandise shops, the auto and taxi drivers association and other affluent families as well. The not-so-affluent greeted the procession by lighting candles and giving cool drinks to the tired people in the procession.

If there’s anyone who makes the most of the these church festivals, it is the travelling vendor who sell sweets, bajjis, merchandise, toys and all sorts of knick-knacks. Their small shops are arranged in such a way to attract one and all!

I retuned home, having a cotton candy in my mouth, the display of fireworks still before my eyes and the thought of how the land of alcoholics is also a land of the most devout!

Vanitha Utsav in full swing in Kochi!

People of Kochi are busy shopping these days. In fact, they always are but when Vanitha Utsav – the biggest shopping festival in India is in full swing you can expect what the fervor will be like. Vanitha Utsav (earlier Vanitha Ice) is the shopping fest which is eagerly looked forward to by most Keralites in spite of the very many similar shopping fests organized in the city. Serious shoppers, window shoppers, onlookers and tourists drop by to witness this mega event which hits Kochi every year.

The fest is sponsored by “Vanitha”. And,Talking about Vanitha, it is not only the vanitha (women) of Kerala who are very familiar with this name. Old and Young, Rich and Poor, Men, Women and Kids – there would be hardly anyone in the state Kerala who hasn’t heard of India’s famous women magazine “Vanitha”. It is a part of their home and lives and there would be literally not a single house, clinic or beauty parlour in Kerala where you cannot find this magazine.

This year Vanitha Utsav is dated to run from January 22nd to February 9th. The inauguration was done by noted Malayalam film actor Dileep. The shopping carnival is held at an area of about one lakh square feet in the Jawaharlal Nehru International Stadium at Kaloor.

There are stalls including all range of products – home appliances, real estate, handicraft, handloom, health and beauty but what I like the most was the crystal and lanterns shops which was a real feast to the eyes, seeing it was definitely more rewarding than purchasing it (owing to their exorbitant cost) !. Then there were beautiful aquariums, they were so fine-looking that at one look I thought they are artificial, lots of North Indian handicrafts and dress materials and numerous stalls selling the cheap handbags and sandals. The crowd was however a bit off-putting (you don’t have to walk, cos people behind will push you through the entire length).

Break the Rules!

6 months earlier, I had been in the same railway station on the same platform on my way to Kochi, when I noticed blood and flesh on the tracks. A policeman updated me that a train ran over a woman who was trying to cross the tracks. She was not able to climb the platform in time and the result saw her flesh being eaten by crows!!!

It was sad and I kept thinking of her fate. At least people will learn to obey rules in future, I thought.

But, it is sad, the impact of such incidents do not seem to last in the minds of Keralites or may be even Indians for more than a day or two and the next time I was at the platform, I saw even more people on the tracks, triple the number on the footbridge :|

6 months later I’m thinking “when will our people learn!”. And to disobey the rules right when you have a hoarding saying “not to” in front of you. It amused me!

Shining in Glory!

Kochiites witnessed a spectacular star put up for display with a grand curtain raiser and inaugural function on 17th December. But little would a common man have thought that this star from their own city would make it to the Guinness World records. One look at it and anyone would agree that it is huge, awesome and only one of its kind. But to make it to the record book – not many things and people from Kerala have been fortunate enough for that.

However, the world real estate major Apple who deserve the credit for this Mas star did have this hope in mind when they set out to construct this Ornamental star out of 1400 kg of steel. It was the hard work of 40 talented and accomplished workers who toiled by it for 6 days and nights, that made this 103.8 tall and 72 feet wide star a reality.

Designed by Mr. Zubin Manjummal and Mr Anil Ayroor, the star made Apple A day Properties, a Kerala-basedreal estate firm proud by making it the first construction company in India to enter the Guinness Book of records. The Editor in Chief (Guinness Book of World Records), Craig Glenday presented the recognition certificate to Rajeev Kumar Cheruvara, Director and Saju Kadavilan, Managing Director, Apple A Day properties on December 31st.

This largest X’Mas ornament star of the world has been erected and put up for public display near the South Over Bridge in Cochin and if you have not had a glance of the star yet, it is indeed worth the drive and the appalling traffic block near the bridge.

Rowing all the way to Olympics!

Snake Boat race lovers who flock to “The Land of Snake Boats” just to be a part of the boat race fervor are in for some good news. You can keep your eyes open and lookout for the 2012 London Olympics. For people who have not yet had the blessed opportunity to see the wonderful sight of a snake-boat being manned by 100-125 oarsmen, who along with four helmsmen, paddle in unison to the swift cadence of ‘vanchipattu’ (song of boatmen) sung by 25 singers (who never illustrate a slight dwindle in their enthusiasm all throughout the race) – this is the time to get lucky! The Snake boat race may make an international debut at the forthcoming Olympics.

Unlike most of the Olympic events (individual competitions), here is a sport which epitomizes integration, harmony and team spirit. If everything falls in line with the plan chalked out by Keraleeyam (a non-government organization with headquarters in the State’s capital), the boat race is expected to be held on the River Thames. The NGO has charted out a plan to exhibit five leading ‘chundans’ or snake-boats on the Thames as a part of the inaugural ceremony functions. Mr. Keith Vaz, Member, British House of Commons has guaranteed all support for conducting the event in London.

Keraleeyam is leaving no stone unturned in making the event popular and has also decided to demonstrate a snake-boat race as part of the Cambridge-Oxford University water sports festival to be held in 2010.

So far, snake boat races have remained confined to the Kerala backwaters and are a matchless attraction. Keralaites love these boat races and even movies which revolve around them have turned out to be blockbusters.

Wait till you get to see them and you will understand why this sport is the Malayali’s favorite!

Another Sad Day!

boat tragedy

It is not long before the heartbreaking scenes of crying faces and dead bodies from the Thekkady Boat Mishap have begun to fade from our minds. Families who were enjoying their reunions holidaying together, found themselves brutally separated by death. Parents who took their children out on a Kerala holiday, on a summer vacation treat, had to return back to their native places without them. Their children were no more alive to get back to school :(

While a huge section of people blamed the Kerala Government for overlooking safety measures, few called it fate and the state bid a tearful adieu to the boat tragedy victims.  And for those who suffered the impact, those who felt the stings of death casting its shadows on their loved ones, had literally no words to say. What was gone was gone forever. No Kerala Government could bring their dear ones back!

Just as the dark shade of this tragedy was losing color, here comes another one which takes us all the way back there. 35 days after 45 tourists drowned in Thekkady Lake, the people of Kerala witnessed yet another sad day when a ferry capsized in Areekode village in Malappuram district. And this time, it was 8 student souls who were returning happily from school who were called to rest.  As a mark of respect, schools in the Malappuram District was granted a day’s holiday and a dawn to dusk hartal was observed on Thursday (5th November) in Areekode.

While the status of the Thekkady boat tragedy is that the 6 accused are out on bail and that there is really no tangible action to button down the real culprits, K.P. Rajendran, the State Revenue Minister has finally taken a call to action in the light of this incident. Collectors of all the 14 districts have been asked to submit reports on the ferry services operating in their area of control.

The main problem as identified by a former official is that, though the government departments are the ones approved to oversee ferry service operations, the reality is that the village councils take initiative as they view it as their duty to the people. Hence, the problem lies in the sanctioning and allocation of funds for ferry service operations.

It looks like people are tired of reminding the Government to do its duty and the Government is still waiting for someone to remind them!

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