Burgher Street in Fort Kochi keeps alive the Dutch history
Published August 30, 2011 | 
The sleepy bylane of Burgher Street in Fort Kochi has lost its history somewhere down the time line, however it still holds the vital links that connect this city to the Dutch legacy of the yore!
Though most of the residents and the tourists who throng Fort Kochi, pass by this street which is located close to many tourist attractions like art galleries, most of them seem to be unaware of the historic connection associated with the Burgher street. There are only two streets in Fort Kochi which still bear Dutch names, Burgher Street and Petercelli Street as the other streets have been renamed by the British who came later.
The word Burgher in Dutch means ‘clerk’ in reference to the Portuguese descendants of clerks here who had built the street. Though there are no Burghers on the street anymore, it remains a mute testimony of a 300 year old Dutch legacy. It is ironical that this erstwhile Dutch street has a number of Portuguese descendants but no Dutch residents.
The legacy says that in the 15th Century when thePortuguese first came to Kerala, they built a fort in the area and the city around it was called Fort Kochi. But soon the Dutch came in and they destroyed the fort and many other Portuguese buildings and brought in the Protestant reign which made them unpopular among the local populace, which ultimately forced them to leave the area for the Portuguese.
Even today, the Burgher Street has some ancient buildings that showcases specks of Dutch architecture including high ceilings, thick walls and a small courtyard. However it is alarming to note that many modern constructions have come up in the heritage zone, violating the norms, which makes the conservation of these vestiges an uphill task. Like the many pieces of forgotten history, the Burgher Street too has lost its historical significance somewhere; nonetheless let us hope that these vital links of history are not lost forever. Read more on the Dutch influence on this city in this Deccan Chronicle article.
Chinese nets getting a makeover
Published August 23, 2011 | 
Chinese nets often touted as the landmarks of Kochi since time immemorial are now getting a face lift, which will enhance its utility in the changing times. These innovative fishing nets are thought to have brought in by a Chinese explorer, Zheng He in the mid-fifteenth century. Chinese nets known as cheenavala in local parlance are fixed along the shores with the nets dropped down into the water at night, which will be manually pulled up at day break to collect the fish trapped inside. A few of these land-based fishing structures have been motorised where the net will be pulled by motors instead of the traditional method of being pulled by 4 to 6 men.
There are over 25 Chinese nets dotting the shores of Fort Kochi and Vypeen. Two of these have been mechanised so far. The traditional operation of these Chinese nets, which have a 20-metre span is labour intensive and as it is very hard these days to find labourers to pull it, some of the owners decided to motorise it. Although the maintenance cost is higher, they are hopeful of getting good results in the long run.
However, there are different schools of thought on this issue as some feel that mechanising these ancient structures is not a good idea. While men pull these nets up, they can adjust the pulling power according to the wave’s strength whereas in the motorised version it is not possible. If the wave and the motor pull the supporting poles of the net in opposite directions, it could snap the nets causing financial loss says the fishermen.Only time will tell whether it is a feasible option or not; but for the time being these innovative Chinese fishing net owners who had hit upon this novel venture is upbeat as they can keep the nets operational without having to worry about the availability of labourers. Also check out the blog Maddy’s Ramblings,which tells you more on the Chinese nets in Kochi.
Four reasons to visit Fort Kochi: Friends, fish, fun and foreign country feel
Published March 15, 2011 | How we spent a rather lazy evening and some money at Fort Kochi…
It was a rather dull and dreary evening last week. Sharaz and Sooraj our php programmers at Karmakerala, Vinish our designer and I made a quick plan, to go to Fort Kochi.
Sharaz has his roots there; he had spent his childhood there and has had his schooling there. So we thought we’d spend a lazy evening there, by the backwaters or at the beach.
It was a half an hour ride to Fort Kochi, on our bikes. We had no plan, no agenda for the trip.
All through the way I kept bugging Sharaz to stop to have a cup of tea, from some Thattukada, for these wayside eateries always caught my fancy. The tea that they’d brew, given in glasses than in use-and-throw plastic cups, always appealed to me. But my plans to have a cup of tea didn’t materialize.
On the way, at least at a couple of places, we were asked to stop by ‘vigilant’ cops, who wanted us to breathe into their breath analysers, to make sure we are not drunk.
At last, we reached there. It was almost dark.
As soon as we alighted and parked our motorcycles, my thought, as usual was about having a cup of tea. God seemed to have answered my wish; there comes a guy selling tea from his cycle. I inquired if it was the tea-bag one, which I usually won’t like. He nodded in the affirmative; but there was no other go. We looked all around, no tea-shop. We decided to be his customers. But for the first time, I liked the taste of tea made with tea-bags. In fact, such tea supplied on the trains had made me a sworn enemy of tea-bags.
I did say it aloud that the tea was good. As we finished drinking tea, the vendor showed us a bag tied to the back of his cycle and asked us to put the cups there so that it’s not strewn around. Sharaz and Vinish were impressed with the civic-sense that the guy displayed.
“Hope people do this everywhere”
… exclaimed Sooraj. We moved ahead. There were some attempts to take some photographs, but things didn’t go well. Sharaz meanwhile explained that there are shops from where we could buy fish, which they would cook for us on the spot. I suggested trying it out if it was OK with others. Everyone seemed to agree. Vinish, who had given up eating meat and fish since a few years, didn’t have an opinion, though he enjoyed it all.
We went to the nearby shop. There were fishes of all sizes and with names that were rather unfamiliar to Sooraj (who hails from Kasargode) and me (I hail from Thiruvananthapuram district). Sharaz was for us the ‘expert’. We made a choice after ascertaining the prices.
It was a fish that weighted around 1.2 kilogrammes.
A young chap, representing a wayside restaurant, had already approached us, saying that they’d get it prepared for us. We asked him the rates; he said Rs.120 per Kg for getting it fried. So the fish we bought cost us Rs. 210 and another 120 would have to be shelled out for getting it cooked. The young chap assured us that it will take 15 to 20 minutes. We moved ahead, following the young fellow. He led us, to a wayside restaurant. We had plans to buy some rice or chapathis and some vegetarian dish for Vinish. Sharaz told us that it could be a bit more expensive.
The wayside eatery, which was situated among some such other eateries, seemed good for spending an evening. We handed over the fish and got seated.
And then began the wait, which seemed to go on and on. The guy who had led us to the shop has vanished, the others who were there- to serve, to cook etc. – seemed to be bent on making us wait. All that we had to depend on to pass time was our conversation, which of course was always one of our favourite pastimes and the menu-cards, which simply shocked us beyond all imagination. Vegetable dishes, available at costs varying from 25 rupees to 50 or 60 have their prices starting at Rs.200. A plate of beef-fry, which would cost around 50 rupees at a hotel in Ernakulam, would cost us Rs. 300. We could see no justification, except that the tourists who visit Fort Kochi would have no other go but to buy food at this price.
We were concerned that there were no local bodies or government agencies to make sure these hotel people don’t fleece local day trippers like us.
We too were rendered hapless and helpless. Kochi’s own mosquitoes were buzzing, the enthusiasm to talk was yielding to hunger and our desire to have some ‘fresh’ fish and food and it was getting a bit late too. After an hour’s wait, we were told that we’d get it in five minutes. The fish came; we had ordered two plates of rice and some chapathis. Vinish was against the idea of spending Rs. 200 for a vegetable dish which we usually have at Rs. 40 or 50. We knew he was right.
So, it was ‘Get, set go!’. The wait seemed fruitful, the fish was tasty. We had our fill, relishing the taste of the fish along with the rice. Though there were delays in between in serving the food, the bill was delivered, in true ‘Kerala style’, with no delay at all. We shelled out the money and walked out of the eatery.
The walk back to where we had parked our motorbikes was rather pleasant. The streets gave us the feel that we were somewhere far away from Kerala. Sharaz wanted us to take a snap of his against a big, colonial styled bungalow saying, he’d publish the photograph with the caption…
“When I’m sad, I go to Europe”
We took the snaps. Then there was a Benz parked nearby and Vinish wanted to be photographed with it.
And then, it was the ride back. Sharaz showed us his ancestral house, invited us to pay a visit to his grandma. But we were late and put that off for some other day. Then he showed us the school where he, his father and grandfather had studied. We made fun of him, saying,
“So, this is a school that’s historically important”.
He smiled his usual friendly smile and then we set off, on our trip back.
Though the prices were a bit too high and something had to be done from the side of the authorities, we felt, we decided that we have to visit the place once again, without much delay and maybe with more of our friends.
As I am typing out this piece, we do have plans to pay a visit to Fort Kochi again, today or tomorrow…Hope it works out…
Bastion Bungalow- A stroll down the memory lane
Published July 29, 2010 | 
Bastion Bungalow, which at present serves as the official seat of the Sub-Collector will soon house the Renaissance Museum. Bastion bungalow built in 1667 flaunts an Indo-Dutch architecture. True to its name, this structure is situated on the site of Stromsburg Bastion of the Dutch fort. The Spherical shaped Bungalow with its tiled roof and sprawling verandas and wooden annexes was declared as a protected site by the State Archeological Department years back. The bungalow has always been a popular shooting location for regional movies as well.
The ‘Renaissance Museum’, which will be the first of its kind will be set up at the recently renovated Bastion Bungalow at Fort Kochi will showcase the renaissance movement. It will have a rich collection of social, cultural and political movements that took place from the early 1800 to the mid 1980s.
The museum will have a collection of paintings, artifacts, drawings, scriptures and an audio-video library that will be part of the museum. The museum will have a great historical significance as it sheds light to the dark era of untouchability and the reformation movement of Renaissance that helped to put an end to it.
The museum will depict the lives and work of some of the greatest social reformers like Sree Narayana Guru, Dr.Palpu and Mannathu Padmanabhan among others. This museum in Fort Kochi will add to the heritage significance of Fort Kochi. Though this museum will be focusing on the Kerala Renaissance movement at present, later on Indian and European Renaissance elements will be included in this museum. The new generation can draw a lot of useful information on the life styles and culture of the Renaissance days and get connected with the past.
The Other Side of Kerala Economy
Published April 30, 2010 | 
It is heartening to note that tourism in Kerala, registering a steady growth in the last decade has emerged to be one of the main sources of revenue. This tiny southern state of Kerala has become one of the most sought after destinations in India, ahead of Rajasthan and even the Taj Mahal of Agra, which is a matter of pride for all. At present Kerala tourism revenue is pegged at Rs.13000 Crore and has created many direct and indirect employment opportunities for the local populace. The annual tourists footfall of Kerala is around 83.5 lakhs out of which 5.5 lakh tourists are from foreign countries.
Gone are the days when Kerala tourism just revolved around Kovalam , Munnar, Thekkadi and Fort Kochi. These days many new interesting leisure options including house boat cruises and adventure tourism are on the offer in Kerala, much to the delight of the tourists. There are convenient packages that bring out the quintessential charm of Kerala and that suit every budget. The sheer multitude of leisure activities ranging from beach fun, adventure, backwater leisure activities and nature trails and wild life is what makes Kerala, a highly popular destination among tourists.
With the focus being shifted to the less explored spots like Malabar, Wayanad and Palakkad, tourism in Kerala is well poised for a big leap in the coming years. With many prestigious international hotel chains including US-based MGM Mirage Hospitality and Amari from Thailand among others are starting their operations soon in Kerala, the discerning travelers can expect a really high notch experience in Kerala.
Now the other side of Kerala economy: It is baffling to note that the other major source of revenue for Kerala comes through the sales of liquor, which is something not very commendable! It is paradoxical that Kerala also tops the list of the highest per capita liquor consumption in India where the state-owned Kerala State Beverages Corporation Ltd, serves as the sole distributor of IMFL ( Indian Made Foreign Liquor). The tippler sales records an all time high during Onam, Christmas and New Year. Even on ordinary days you can see winding queues in front of the beverages corporation outlets. Kerala, indeed is a land of paradoxes, which excites , baffles and exhilarates you at the same time! Make the most of it 
Volvo bus timings
Published March 4, 2010 | 
The introduction of the hitech Volvo buses, which incorporate some of the state of the art features like air-conditioned interiors, plush seatings, automatic doors and display system has ensured a comfortable city ride to the commuters. The airport service that starts from Fort Kochi has become a hit among tourists. The transit time to the airport is 1.35 hrs from Fort Kochi
Timings
From Fort Kochi to airport
7.25, 8.00, 9.45, 11.30, 12.00, 1.55, 3.30, 4.00, 6.05
From airport to Fort Kochi
7.50, 9.25, 9.55, 11.50, 1.35, 2.05, 3.55, 5.25, 6.00
KSRTC Volvo buses started in Kochi
Published December 31, 2009 | 
For many Kochiites, it was rather a thrilling experience to have travelled in the AC Volvo bus run by KSRTC‘s city service. On Wednesday (30.12.2009) Morning at 7 ‘O’ clock Kochi‘s KSRTC Volvo buses started off their maiden trip and ended at 10 pm. Many awaited eagerly and patiently to have a Volvo experience to reach their offices or houses. On the first day trip, the buses were delayed on consecutive trips due to traffic blocks. Of the seven Volvo buses, three plied between Fort Kochi and Nedumbassery, while four buses conducted service in the Aroor-Angamaly route.
Travelling in the Volvo is indeed a luxury. Most buses plying on this route were filled to capacity. But the only problem is that you will have to sacrifice a lot of time to enjoy this luxury. From Aroor to Ankamali you will be charged Rs. 68 and from Fort Kochi to Nedumbasseri Rs. 70. Eventhough, the bus fares are something that won’t fit to the daily expenses of an ordinary man, the greater facility is that, you can travel daily in a luxury bus without facing any hassles unlike other private buses operating in the city. The gutters and the zig-zags of the Kochi roads will not affect the smooth and happy journey of travellers in these orange coloured Volvo buses.
The bus employees dressed in variations of blue colour shirts and trousers, are specially trained to make you feel more comfortable inside. The place names appear on the board in English and Malayalam. Songs are played all the while you travel, so that you don’t have to feel bored. A fully automatic controlling system enables you to get inside and outside the bus easily. The door is controlled by the driver with a press button. 
Union Minister of State for Agriculture K V Thomas on Monday inaugurated the much-awaited Volvo low-floor bus service in the city. Seven of the 50 low-floor automatic Volvo buses earmarked for Kochi under the Jawaharlal Nehru National Urban Renewal Mission (JNNURM) scheme were flagged off at Vytilla Junction. The minister hopes that these hi-tech buses would attract more people towards the public transport system, thereby easing the traffic congestion on the city roads. In Thiruvananthapuram, the Volvo buses are not very successful. The Kerala State Road Transport Corporation(KSRTC) will have to bear the additional liability if the bus service does not reach upto the break-even level, The minister noted.
Anyway let’s hope that these Volvo buses would meet the demands of all those who love a luxury travel.
Kerala featured in the top ten winter holiday destinations.
Published December 7, 2009 | 
As the nippy winter season in Europe is at its peak, tourists are looking for tropical and balmy destinations to enjoy a well deserved sun tan and to escape the gloom of the gray weather back home. Irish times.com has included Kerala along with the Caribbeans, Hawaii, Canary Islands, Egypt, Tunisia, Dubai, Thailand, Morocco and Dubai as the top 10 winter holiday spots this year .
With many Governments mulling over the issue of making winter holidays tax free, Kerala is likely to see a surge in winter holiday makers. From December to April is one of the best seasons to visit Kerala as the rains have just finished and the tropical sun is not at its peak. A guided tour is the best possible way to explore Kerala as most of the must see spots are tucked away in the remote hinterlands and high ranges.
Cochin is the right spot to kick off your Kerala tour as the international airport here is connected to various destinations around the world. The heritage zone of Fort kochi which is famous for the Portuguese remnants and period architectural styled edifices, Chinese fishing nets and the beaches will help you rid off the jet lag. A house boat cruise in Kumarakom, the quaint beach resorts of Aleppey and a flop along the vast coastline of Kerala with many beaches including the palm-fringed beaches of Kovalam would serve as a great starter. After the sun and the fun of the beaches it is time for you to move up into the hill stations to take a peek into the tropical forests, tea plantations, spice gardens, tiger reserves and more.
The wild life enthusiasts are ensured of an exciting fare. You can spot freely roaming wild life herds at Gavi at Munnar or indulge in birdwatching at the world famous wetland of Ramsar site, home to many rare migratory birds during winter. A burst of sunshine in the darkest days of the year in the other side of the globe might do you good!
The best of Minicoy, now showing in Kochi!
Published November 18, 2009 | Step into David Hall at Fort Kochi this week and you are likely to be transported into a distant world, viz., the Minicoy Islands, the southernmost part of Lakshadweep, India’s smallest Union Territory.
For, on show is the ‘Minicoy Festival,’ being organised by the Centre for Action Research on Environment Science and Society (CARESS)-a Chennai-based NGO, Maliku Development Society, Minicoy, Maliku Hikimas Producers’ Society, Minicoy and the CGH Earth Group of Hotels, as part of the ongoing conservation Enterprise and Livelihoods programme in Minicoy.
Visitors can get to experience Minicoy culture, cuisine, handicrafts, games as well as a variety of fish and coconut-based products. One of the major attractions of this event is the chance to sample the unique cuisine of Minicoy to your fill. Prepared in the traditional manner by the Minicoyans, these delicacies range from appetisers to a sumptuous meal.
For those keen on handicrafts, there is much in store – miniature jahaadhonis (snakeboats used to tow sailing boats) as well as dathuru odis (sea vessels that once linked Minicoy and Kannur as well as GalleGalle and Rangoon) – are on display for sale.
All in all, a must-see for die-hard foodies and culture vultures, who happen to be in Kochi at the moment.
A Jewish wedding in Kochi
Published December 30, 2008 | Kerala is fast catching up the fancy of prospective couples all over the world as a trendy overseas wedding destination. Many couples who come down to Keralaprefer to have an exceptional Kerala wedding where the bride and groom don the Kerala attire and dress up like any other Kerala couple. However this Jewish wedding that took place on Sunday belonged to a different genre altogether because the groom belonged to the Jewish community of Kerala.
At present only around 48 Jews remain in Kochi as the majority of them have migrated to their distant homeland after India’s independence. The Jews who had originally settled in the ancient port of Cranganore, were forced to flee to escape the Portuguese onslaught during the 14th century. It was then the Cochin Maharaja offered land in Mattancherry, where they constructed a synagogue in 1568.
This Jewish wedding brought back nostalgic memories for many Cochinites as the city woke up on Sunday to a long cherished Jewish wedding, which took place after almost two decades. In the Paradesi Synagogue in the old Jewish town in Mattancherry, Solomon and Susan were united in marriage on Sunday at 5.30 p.m. Only a select gathering of guests were allowed to witness this wedding, which was held behind closed doors amidst very tight security in the wake of the recent terror strikes in the Jewish installations in Mumbai.
The marriage was conducted as per the Jewish customs. Nine candles to denote the ninth day of the Jewish Hanukkah festival were lit and the blessing in Aramaic was read out, which is something exceptional to Kochi Jews. The guests applauded when the groom slipped the wine-soaked wedding ring on the bride’s finger, which was followed by the unique ritual of breaking a wineglass, which is followed by only Jews in Kerala to denote the destruction of the temple in Jerusalem. This wedding was also different from other Jewish weddings in that it was the chief warden , Samuel Hallegua, who read out the seven blessings in Hebrew and not the rabbi.